How To Wear Today's Most Popular Fashion Trends IRL - Refinery29 |
- How To Wear Today's Most Popular Fashion Trends IRL - Refinery29
- If You Can Get Killed Doing It, Fashion Wants It - The New York Times
- Fashion Nova Just Introduced A New Line Of Size-Inclusive Denim - Refinery29
- Zara uncovered: Inside the brand that changed fashion - BBC News
| How To Wear Today's Most Popular Fashion Trends IRL - Refinery29 Posted: 06 Aug 2019 08:29 AM PDT  Today's trends aren't for the faint of heart. Consider, for example, those sky-high platform versions of the Mary Janes from your childhood or pouf dresses plucked from the 18th century. Wearing these outrageous trends isn't a feat you should tackle without at least getting some inspo first. Before we incorporate square toe sandals and see-through tops in our wardrobe, we turn to street style stars for guidance. From Paris to Milan, Copenhagen to New York, they make the most outlandish trends seem totally wearable. ADVERTISEMENT In the slideshow ahead, check out how our fave styling experts master the boldest looks of the season. At Refinery29, we're here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission. Photo: Christian Vierig/Getty Images. 18th Century DressesPaloma Elsesser Photo Courtesy of Matches Fashion. Batsheva Floral Print Ruffled Cotton Dress, $392.00 Buy Pixie Market Leaf Jacquard White Maxi Dress, ADVERTISEMENT Brock Collection Ruffled Floral-Print Taffeta Maxi Dress, — PAID — For footwear that transcends trends, try a classic boat shoe that's been updated with bold autumnal colors, striped satin laces, and varsity-inspired details. Sperry Top Sider Women's Authentic Original 2-Eye Varsity Boat Shoe, $94.95 Buy Photo: Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images. Tanks & TrousersErika Boldrin Photo Courtesy of The Frankie Shop. The Frankie Shop Side-Belt Beige Pants with Black Contrast Piping, $165.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Eloquii. Eloquii Paperbag Waist Wide Leg Pant, $79.95 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of Bershka. Bershka Striped Paperbag Pants, $29.90 Buy Photo: Edward Berthelot/Getty Images. Sheer DressingPhoto Courtesy of Need Supply. Collina Strada Mariposa Dress, $460.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Zara. Zara Organza Blouse, $35.90 Buy Photo Courtesy of KkCo. KKCo Nine Twenty-Seven Dress, $325.00 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. Flip FlopsVeronika Heilbrunner Photo Courtesy of Havaianas. Havaianas Brazil Logo, $22.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Net-A-Porter. TKEES Lily Matte-Leather Flip Flops, $55.00 Buy Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. XL CollarsCharlotte Groeneveld Photo Courtesy of Zara. Zara Peter Pan Collar Poplin Blouse, $49.90 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of The Frankie Shop. The Frankie Shop White Cotton Beautiful Blouse, $118.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Urban Outfitters. Urban Outfitters Henrietta Ruffle-Collar Blouse, $59.00 Buy Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. Bermuda ShortsIrina Linovich Photo Courtesy of Genuine People. Genuine People Faux Leather Knee Shorts, $185.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Target. Prologue Mid-Rise Paperbag Waist Bermuda Shorts™, $24.99 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of COS. COS Paperbag Cotton Shorts, $89.00 Buy Photo: Christian Vierig/Getty Images. Hourglass BlazersPatricia Manfield Photo Courtesy of & Other Stories. & Other Stories Hourglass Houndstooth Blazer, $179.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Ssense. Balenciaga Blue Check Wool Hourglass Blazer, $2790.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Mr. Larkin. Nomia Doubled Breasted Jacket With Split Sides, ADVERTISEMENT Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. Heeled Flip FlopsChristine Centenera Photo Courtesy of Reformation. Reformation Caroline Sandal, $155.69 Buy Photo Courtesy of Mango. Mango Heel Leather Sandals, $49.99 Buy Photo Courtesy of Net-A-Porter. Simon Miller Patent Leather Sandals, $350.00 Buy Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. MonochromeADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of H&M. Photo Courtesy of Lisa Says Gah. Photo Courtesy of ASOS. Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images Bike ShortsCindy Bruna Photo Courtesy of H&M. H&M Plus-Size Jersey Cycling Shorts, $12.99 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of Aritzia. TNA Equator Short, $18.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Liana Clothing. Liana Clothing Soto Short, $60.00 Buy Photo: Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images. Square Toe SandalsLeonie Hanne Topshop Nettle White Strap Sling Back Heels, $100.00 Buy Photo Courtesy of Shopbop. By Far Libra Slides, $365.00 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Photo Courtesy of Staud. Staud Billie Wedge, $275.00 Buy ADVERTISEMENT Load more...  |
| If You Can Get Killed Doing It, Fashion Wants It - The New York Times Posted: 07 Aug 2019 12:07 PM PDT  It's a mighty long way from El Capitan to the Louis Vuitton flagship on the Champs-Élysées, but don't mention that to Virgil Abloh. For his fall 2019 collection, Mr. Abloh, the creative director for men's wear at Vuitton, introduced a chalk bag not unlike the kind climbers like the free soloist Alex Honnold use to attack rock walls with little more than their limbs and their nerve. Traditional outfitters like Marmot, North Face and Black Diamond make versions of the bucket-shaped carryall for holding the chalk crucial to keeping climbers' hands dry as they scale crags and mark ticks on rock faces. Most sell for around $20. The Vuitton Chalk Nano costs $1,590 (or $3,000 in backpack size), its added value, in corporate-speak, being the "understated Louis Vuitton aesthetic coded into the allover LV monogram." Fashion has had a long love affair with sports of all kinds, and it is easy enough to trace an arc from the genteel sports of the leisured classes of the 19th century to the more crazily individualistic ones of today. Since the 1990s, at least, extreme and adventure sports have excited designers, who imported to their runways superficial elements of gear created for street lugers, off-piste snowboarders, arctic surfers and, lately, those who push the outer limits of athletic pursuit. Consider the new fall men's wear collection from Prada, a label that has probably done more than most to advance the blending of adventure sports and fashion, exploiting technical fabrics and sporting motifs for collections that ready men for every conceivable style or climate challenge on, say, Fifth Avenue. Its designs have varied widely through the years, and yet the visual vocabulary of extreme and adventure sports is an aesthetic constant. "With time, the aesthetic could and has changed," Miuccia Prada wrote recently in an email. "But the technical and performing element, therefore research, remains at the core of the collection." She was referring to a group of fall clothes conceptually inspired, in part, by team wear for the Luna Rossa Challenge, the Prada Pirelli challenger for the America's Cup. Image  Actual race wear for the team competing in Auckland, New Zealand, next year will be rigorously streamlined. "Performance is, and has to be, the absolute priority," Ms. Prada wrote. On the other hand, the multicolored paneled, cinched, zippered, hooded Windbreakers and parkas and backpacks and scoop-neck pullovers Prada showed in Milan in June came festooned with so many bellows pockets and utility compartments that a wearer would need a route map just to find his car keys. IT WAS PROBABLY INEVITABLE that, as tech advances propelled sports culture further away from the contractually dictated sameness of numbered team uniforms and closer to the individualistic and highly Instagrammable realms of death-courting pursuits like free soloing and wing-suit flight, fashion would follow. In a certain sense, it had no choice. The street wear that has for so long stoked fashion's edge eventually stalled, and as hoodies and saggers became a form of urban normcore, they yielded to the embrace by fashion-forward types like the rapper ASAP Rocky of zip fleece parkas from labels like North Face, Columbia and Arc'teryx — "gorpcore" as it was christened by The Cut. Even Alessandro Michele, the Gucci panjandrum, went around looking like a base camp groupie. "I believe that the street wear and sportswear influences we have seen lately in fashion are mostly aesthetic," Ms. Prada wrote. "It is solely a fashion statement." Yet for many of the labels represented in a crammed adventure sports pavilion at the recent Pitti Uomo, world's largest trade show dedicated to men's wear and held twice yearly in Florence, Italy, the get-ups of the ornamental dandies for which the fair has become famous seemed as if designed for inhabitants of a distant universe. At brands like Woolrich, Raeburn, Mountain Research, And Wander and others, it was adventure sports that drove the aesthetics of clothes better suited to the Iditarod than the cobbled streets of Florence. Reinforced, padded, anti-abrasive, reflective, filtering, thermo-regulating, rated for water resistance to depths of several hundred feet, the designs were said to have been inspired by Thoreau's survivalist essays, NASA's Mars exploration program, ice fishing, survivalist bushcraft, bouldering and the rock-face daredeviltry that turned the 2018 documentary "Free Solo" into an unexpected, nail-biting success. "This is not really about the usual cycles of fashion, with trends like logo-mania coming back every decade," said Andrea Cane, the creative director of Woolrich, the 189-year-old American label now owned by an Italian and Japanese partnership. "We're seeing something we haven't seen before." Mr. Cane was referring to the adrenaline-rush niche or "whiz" sports, whose amateur stars have substantial followings on social media. Think Marshall Miller, the base jumper, sky diver and wing-suit flyer whose death-defying antics make individualist renegades of just a generation ago seem quaint. THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE at work, Mr. Cane suggested, in the push toward the outer limits of athletic adventure: environmental panic. "We increasingly need to find tools to be protected, clothes that can adapt to rapid changes of temperature, keep out the elements," he said. "It doesn't matter if you're a climber or a guy in the city — psychologically you're wearing your house on your back." Or else perhaps you are clad in a Chinese military parachute upcycled into a smart suit like those at the British label Raeburn, which fold down to roughly the size of a bandanna. The label, barely a decade old, was founded by Christopher Raeburn, a designer whose stated goal is producing fashion almost exclusively from remade and recycled materials. Recently Mr. Raeburn named his brother Graeme as performance director for Raeburn, the significance of the pairing less nepotistic than directional. At his previous job, Graeme drove the growth of the cycling lifestyle brand Rapha, possibly best known for its mobile pop-up clubs and the fact that its majority investors include Steuart and Tom Walton, grandsons of the founder of Walmart. Or you are wearing a World War II E-1 radioman's vest, open at the back for easy access to communication equipment (ready for end-of-days transmissions?) and reproduced as part of a line of clothing from Mountain Research. This niche label from Tokyo, known as General Research when it was founded in 1993 by Setsumasa Kobayashi, was renamed in 2006 to reflect the designer's predilection for stuff like zippered cotton-nylon snow pants resembling something an early mountaineer might have worn to traverse the Khumbu Icefall. "Performance wear is a really important part of the fashion mix," said Hideaki Ishii, a Mountain Research representative. "We don't do any fishing ourselves, but we love the fishing men with their crazy pockets." Mr. Kobayashi was just one of many designers at Pitti Uomo producing garments suited for the kinds of adventure where survival is not necessarily a given. And, eerily, his designs embodied a low-grade environmental anxiety that hummed beneath the surface of the trade fair, as if the adventure sports trend in fashion had existential underpinnings. FOR JOSH PESKOWITZ, the men's fashion director for the luxury e-commerce retailer Moda Operandi, performance can be interpreted any way you like. Sure, Mr. Kobayashi may be a purist who lives two hours outside Tokyo in a specially designed green structure set deep in a forest, may haul his own wood and sleep in a loft bed he clambers into by way of a wall studded with rock climbing holds. Yet, as Mr. Peskowitz pointed out, for many fans of extreme sports fashion, the spirit of adventure rarely takes them beyond the neighborhood. Stroll through popular fashion destinations like the Omotesando neighborhood of Tokyo, Mr. Peskowitz noted, and it is not rare to encounter guys outfitted as if they were headed to base camp on Mount Everest. "I've seen men walking around with tent frames on their backs and Wigwam boots pulled to their knees, and they're literally going for coffee," he said. "They like the look." In a sense, this evolution was an inevitable one. More than six decades ago, Sports Illustrated canvassed a group of what would now be termed influencers about the effects of sportswear on fashion. One of them was Edward S. Marcus, a merchant who built a family specialty store in Dallas into the retailing behemoth Neiman Marcus. "Increasing leisure and interest in sports have led people into avocational habits that influence fashion," Mr. Marcus told Sports Illustrated in January 1956, noting that popular interest in active sports fashion had made it acceptable to wear knit shirts, bright colors and shorts off the tennis court. "What I find interesting about the extreme sports influence, which speaks to this very '90s moment we're living in and some of the ideas Prada and Helmut Lang first introduced, is the extension of it to all aspects of the wardrobe," said Ken Downing, a former Neiman Marcus executive who is now the creative director of the Triple Five Group, the Canadian developers of retail and entertainment centers like the Mall of America. "It's a continuation of where casualization is heading beyond the sweatshirt." "If you think about it," he added, "it's even begun to find its way into tailored clothing. Functionality is the new decoration, in a way."  |
| Fashion Nova Just Introduced A New Line Of Size-Inclusive Denim - Refinery29 Posted: 07 Aug 2019 08:20 AM PDT   |
| Zara uncovered: Inside the brand that changed fashion - BBC News Posted: 07 Aug 2019 04:27 PM PDT  Image copyright Zara I am seeing spots. More specifically polka dots, on a white maxi dress. Three women have walked by me - all wearing the same identical dress - in the half hour I've been sitting outside this café. I know it's from Zara, I've tried it on, and now I'm seeing those spots everywhere. It is the dress of the summer, another viral Zara fashion statement, complete with a dedicated Instagram account set up by fans. Just one sign of how the Spanish clothing giant is bucking the trend of many of its struggling High Street competitors and posting record sales. Considering the success and size of the company, it might be thought of as a bit of an enigma. It doesn't advertise, it does little marketing and its boss, who was named best performing chief executive in the world by a business magazine last year, has not given any big interviews, until now. Pablo Isla recently laid out plans for Zara's future and said it was all about a digital and sustainable transformation. But is it possible for a company to be sustainable, when the entire business is about getting shoppers to buy as much fashion as possible? 'No contradiction'Speaking at their campus-like headquarters in northern Spain, Pablo Isla, the chairman of Zara and its parent company Inditex, tackled the sustainability issue. "There is no contradiction at all between sustainability and profitability of the company," he says. "In the next year, all our stores in the world will be efficient - this means their consumption of energy and water is significantly lower. If your energy consumption is 20% less, you have a return." In fact some of the key ways in which the business works helps with its sustainability goal. Mr Isla explains that Zara works with a "low level of inventory". This helps the retailer minimise waste and avoid discounting huge amounts of clothing. On my tour of the headquarters, I walk past rows of desks where staff are analysing instant data from Zara's store managers. They use this information to decide what to make each week - Zara's factories will only make what they know will sell. Most of Zara's clothes are manufactured at its sites in Spain or in nearby Portugal, Morocco and Turkey. 'Long-term relations'One of the key factories producing Zara's womenswear is just next to the head office. This way of working is all about speed, which allows Zara to get fresh trends into stores before their competitors. But it hasn't always meant being able to keep a close eye on standards. Two years ago, some Zara customers in Turkey found notes in clothes from workers saying they hadn't been paid and asking for them to back calls for better working standards. When asked about it, Mr Isla says working with these suppliers was an "evolution". He says "the most important thing is the idea of long-term relations with our suppliers" when it comes to keeping an eye on working conditions. Fashion Revolution is an independent organisation which monitors where clothes come from and how ethical they are. They say Zara needs to provide more information about where their clothes are made to be held accountable for standards. "Inditex, which owns Zara, remains one of the major fashion retailers that is dragging its feet on publishing a list of its manufacturers," says Fashion Revolution policy director Sarah Ditty. "Other brands have published a list and proved that doing so doesn't hurt them competitively. " Recycled plasticsBack at headquarters, I wander through the pilot store built on-site - a perfectly-kept Zara shop where everything is in place - but there are no shoppers. This where Zara test how everything should look and feel, from lighting to displays. They are aiming to reach zero waste in store - all packaging is made from recyclable cardboard and plastic. Recycling is a big theme for the clothes too. They have been working with the renowned US university MIT to develop ways of making fabric from recycled plastics. I take the opportunity to feel the texture of some of the latest recycled plastic clothes from their sustainable line. The cloth feels silky to the touch. Mr Isla has committed to 100% of the cotton, linen, and polyester used by Zara - and all of its sister companies - being organic, sustainable, or recycled by 2025. Sarah Ditty from Fashion Revolution says that while it is great to see Zara taking steps to incorporate more sustainable material into its ranges, it is essential action that all brands should be taking. However, she highlights that the real issue is all about the sheer volume of clothes they make. Inditex reported putting over 1.5 billion products on the market in 2017 alone. Even with more environmentally-friendly materials, producing that many items each year is unsustainable for our living planet. How much clothing we buy is a marker of just how much the industry has grown and changed in a short space of time. The UK has the highest rate of consumption in Europe, at 27.6kg per person per year. Customer decisionsIndeed, Zara has an enormous turnaround, fashion influencer Jasmine Jonas tells me. "I feel confident walking into a Zara, [being] able to find something that will look good, fit well, and that I can afford. But across the board, demand for eco-conscience clothing is rising." It's not just Fashion Revolution - many campaigners say the only way to truly tackle sustainability in fashion is to make and sell less. But how can that be a solution for Zara and Inditex if they want to keep those record-breaking sales? "It's always the customers' decision of how much do they buy of each particular product," says Mr Isla. "I think our responsibility as a company is taking care of manufacturing our products in a very sustainable way. Each customer, each person, is free to decide how much would he or she like to buy at any point in time, if this person wants to spend money going to a restaurant or buying clothes... this is the freedom that each person has." "Should I, shouldn't I?" is the age-old changing room debate, but does it take on a new dimension if, as Pablo Isla says, it is ultimately in shoppers' hands to decide the crucial sustainability issue? In the meantime, Zara says it will do what it can to keep the environmental conundrum for customers to a minimum.  |
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